Specialty Club – August 2023

2020 Domaine Philippe et Arnaud Dubreuil, Savigny-les-Talmettes, $60

Winery Info: This estate, based in the Burgundy village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, was created by Paul Dubreuil in the late 1940s.  

His son Philippe combined his father’s estate with his own in 1989, following Paul’s sudden death. In 2010 Arnaud took over, representing the third generation of the family. The estate now has holdings in six Premier Cru sites in and around Savigny-lès-Beaune. (The Dubreuil family is related to Domaine Bize, considered the top producer in the region. Arnaud’s grandmother was a Bize, and Patrick Bize was his father’s cousin. Some of Paul Dubreuil’s initial vineyard holdings came from the Bize side of the family.)

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir

Vineyard: Les Talmettes, a south-facing Premier Cru vineyard in the Côte de Beaune. It is situated east of the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, on the upper reaches of a steep slope, below the Bois de Noël wood. Les Talmettes is contiguous to Les Vergelesses vineyard and, until 2007, fruit from the two vineyards was blended together. The soil is very stony and thin, over a clay-limestone base.

Flavor Profile: Right now, this Pinot is still young and fairly taut, with firm tannins that will soften over the next few years, allowing its pretty floral aromatics and notes of red currant to shine through. Its undercurrent of savory earthiness and spice will also develop further with a bit of bottle age.

Availability: This wine is in decent supply for now.

Drinking Window: Give this one four to five years to develop, then enjoy up to 2032.

Food Pairing: Enjoy with beef dishes (especially boeuf Bourguignon), duck, coq au vin, or with mushroom-based fare.

2021 Tunella, Biancosesto, $45

Winery Info: This wine comes from Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy, a small, mountainous region tucked between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea. It is best known for its fresh, complex white wines, which make up 77% of the region’s production. Tunella is a family winery based in the far eastern edge of the region, near the borders of Austria and Slovenia. Their history dates back three generations, and today they have 70 hectares, all located in the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC (the eastern hills of Friuli), prized for producing outstanding white wines, especially from the indigenous varieties Friulano and Ribolla Gialla.

Grapes: A blend of Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, aged in large, 30-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels.

Vineyard: Grown on a type of rocky marl (chalky clay) and sandstone soil known as ponca, unique to this region. Ponca soil is rich in calcium carbonate and alkalinity, which imparts great minerality and aromatic complexity to the wines.

Flavor Profile: Very elegant and expressive, with complex aromatics and a supple, velvety texture. It shows the unique characteristics of both varietals, with fresh, vibrant acidity and notes of citrus and peach from the Ribolla Gialla, and Friulano’s complex notes of apricot and almonds.

Availability: This wine is in good supply going forward.

Drinking Window: Enjoy now or over the next few years.

Food Pairing: The winery suggests mushroom or fish dishes, especially shellfish, or oven-baked fish.