2021 Colle Petruccio, Stralunato Toscana Bianco IGT — In the 1990s Sandro Ruffo gave up his successful law practice and moved to Maremma, on Italy’s Tuscan coast, where he could slow down, enjoy the beautiful countryside, and reconnect with his lifelong passion for winemaking.
His farm is located on the Colle Petruccio, a hill historically used by both Etruscans and Romans for growing grapes. The stony soil imparts a unique strength and minerality to the wines. This unoaked white is 80% Vermentino, with 15% Trebbiano and 5% Malvasia. It has deep color and rich texture, with ripe flavors of orchard and citrus fruit and balancing acidity. Fermentation in stainless steel helps retain freshness. Perfect with seafood soups, especially with mussels, scallops, and octopus. $16.50
2022 Sonder, Grenache Blanc — Riley Miller founded Sonder in 2016 to make Washington wines “driven by simplicity and authenticity.” After studying viticulture and enology, he traveled extensively, working with winemakers in Oregon, California, New Zealand, and Australia. He was particularly impressed by the “low fi” movement in Australia, which stresses low intervention winemaking with an emphasis on producing wines that reflect their vineyard sources. He recently poured his wines at one of our Saturday tastings and this one was a huge hit. Grenache Blanc is the richest of the white wines made in the south of France, and this wine reflects that. The grapes are sourced from Boushey and Carthage vineyards in the Yakima Valley, fermented mostly in stainless steel, and aged on the lees for five months. Great with savory garlic dishes, like cauliflower and chicken. $22
2021 Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Volant — Randall Grahm founded Bonny Doon in 1981. His focus soon turned to Rhône grapes, which grow well in California’s warm Central Coast. In 1986 he released the inaugural vintage of Le Cigare Volant, an homage to the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape where a law (still on the books today) prohibits flying saucers (cigare volant) from landing in the vineyards. Le Cigare Volant remains his flagship wine. This vintage is 65% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, and 2% Petite Sirah, from the Central Coast AVA. It is aromatic and juicy, with notes of ripe red fruit, a touch of white pepper, and a hint of meatiness. With its good structure and spicy, licorice notes, it would pair well with lamb dishes, Moroccan tagine, or roasted wild mushrooms. $16
Domaine Bois de Boursan, “Le Petit Oursan” Vin de France — Bois de Boursan was founded in 1955 by Jean Versino in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in France’s Rhône Valley. In 2015 his son Jean-Paul, who now heads the estate, acquired property about ten kilometers northeast of Châteauneuf, which had plantings of Grenache, Syrah, and Merlot. It is a relatively cool site, with gravelly clay soils and that fruit is the basis for this wine. It is a blend of 45% Grenache, 40% Merlot, and 15% Syrah and includes about 25% declassified Châteauneuf-du-Pape fruit. Vinified and aged in stainless steel and concrete, it is fresh and inviting, with red fruit flavors and a rustic earthiness, evocative of the region. The unexpected addition of Merlot in the blend (not allowed in Rhône wines, hence the Vin de France designation) adds a pleasant roundness to the wine. $18
2021 Bodegas Benegas, Estate Cabernet Franc — In 1883 Don Tiburcio Benegas founded El Trapiche Winery in Mendoza, Argentina and planted what are some of the oldest vineyards in the country with cuttings brought from France. The winery was sold in the early 70s, but in 1999 Federico Benegas-Lynch was able to repurchase the original Finca Libertad Vineyard, situated at 2,800 feet elevation, and he was able to carry on the family tradition. Argentina is best known for Malbec, but the other Bordeaux grapes also flourish in the high altitude vineyards, particularly Cab Franc. Aged six months in French oak, this one has aromas of red fruits and herbs with round tannins and a complex texture. Pair it with tomato sauce dishes, grilled meat, duck, or lamb with herbs. $16
2020 Viña Elena, “Parajé Marin” — This Monastrell (Mourvèdre) comes from the Jumilla region of southeast Spain. Bruma del Estrecho de Marín is a project of Elena Pacheco, made at her family winery. This wine is sourced from the warm, dry Marin Valley in the south of the DO, from grapes grown organically in rocky limestone soils at about 1,200 feet elevation, fermented in stainless steel and aged seven months in concrete. While Monastrell is always full-bodied, the higher altitude, limestone soil, and concrete aging produce a more nuanced wine than is often seen in Jumilla, with great texture, a bit of savory spice, and distinctive hints of the local olive groves in the region. $18