2021 Bodegas y Viñedos Ilurce, Rio Madre, Graciano — This winery, located in northern Spain’s Rioja region, has been run by the Escudero family since 1940.

Their vineyards are planted on rocky, alluvial, soils at about 2,000 feet elevation, where the cold winters and warm summers provide perfect conditions for growing Graciano, a dark, aromatic, late-ripening grape with good acidity, grown primarily in Rioja and sometimes blended with Tempranillo to add aromatics and flavor. For decades, the family sold their fruit for the production of bulk wine but in 2010 they began bottling their own wines, with Rio Madre, their flagship bottling, being one of the first single-varietal Gracianos produced in Rioja at an entry level price. This one is full-bodied and juicy, with soft tannins and flavors of blackberry and spice. Try it with grilled chorizo, lamb, brisket, or charcuterie. $13

2022 Marchetti, Tenuta del Cavaliere Verdicchio — Maurizio Marchetti farms organically in Italy’s Marche region near the Adriatic coast where for generations, his family has been producing Verdicchio, one of the classic white grapes of central Italy. For this micro-production, later harvest version, he uses free run juice from older vines, which he lets ripen an extra month to develop additional body and structure. The resulting wine has all the beautiful acidity typical of a Verdicchio, but with unexpected depth and complexity. The 2022 offering is rich, textured, and aromatic, as always, with notes of orchard fruit and a honeyed character that is nicely balanced by its great acidity. Perfect with richer seafood, such as seared scallops or calamari, or with vegetarian fare. $19.75

2020 Château des Adouzes, Le Tigre, Faugères — Faugères is a small appellation in the Languedoc region of southern France known for its earthy red wines. The soil is mostly well-draining schist throughout and, while the vineyards are planted predominantly to the grapes of the southern Rhône, the wines tend to be bigger and more rustic. This winery was purchased by siblings Jeanne and Olivier Coste in 2018. They come from a long line of Languedoc winemakers and were drawn to the terroir and the old vines of the winery. This wine is a blend of 35% each Carignan and Grenache with 30% Syrah. The rocky schist soil retains heat and minerals producing a complex, intense wine with flavors of red fruits and cassis and hints of pepper and dark spice. They recommend drinking it over the next few years, with roasted or grilled meats, barbecue, or spaghetti Bolognese. $18

2020 Domaine Damien Pinon, Vouvray Sec “Tuffo” — Damien Pinon is a third generation winegrower based in Vouvray in France’s central Loire Valley. He has 29 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, all planted to Chenin Blanc. The vines average 30 years in age and grow on tuffeau, a sandy, clay-limestone soil with ancient marine fossilized shells that add distinct minerality to the wines. This wine (100% Chenin) is aged on its lees in stainless steel for eight to nine months in their underground caves (burrowed into that same limestone), producing a fresh, aromatic, and expressive wine, with notes of apple and stone fruit, great complexity, and food-friendly acidity. Enjoy over the next few years with seafood, shellfish, or a good goat cheese such as Humboldt Fog. $15

2021 Rasa Vineyards, Occam’s Razor — Billo Naravane is one of only three Washington winemakers who has been recognized as a Master of Wine. After a successful career in high tech, he fell in love with wine, returned to school and got a degree in viticulture from U.C. Davis, then founded Rasa in Walla Walla in 2006. He introduced his Occam’s Razor line of wines (named for the principle that the simplest answer is usually the best one), with the 2014 Occam’s Razor Red Blend. This vintage is 51% Cab Sauv, 30% Syrah, 9% Grenache, 7% Merlot, and 3% Cab Franc. It is complex and well structured, with flavors of dark plum, black cherry, and cassis, and a touch of cocoa and spice. Give it some time to open up, then enjoy over the next few years perhaps with roast pork. $21

2021 Ruca Malen, Capítulo Uno Malbec — This winery, based in Mendoza, Argentina, was founded by Jean Pierre Thibaud and Jacques Louis de Montalembert, both of whom had family ties to top wineries in France. In 2020 Agustina Hanna was brought on as winemaker, bringing with her a commitment to innovation and to environmental sustainability. Fruit for this 100% Malbec comes from high altitude alluvial valleys in the Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo. Aged in stainless steel and concrete, the wine is fresh, fruity, and aromatic, with fine tannins, creamy texture, and a hint of earth and spice. It would be great with roasted leg of lamb, steak, or extra aged cheeses. $16