2019 Bergström Wines, Old Stones Chardonnay, $48

Background: Founded in 1999 by John and Karen Bergström in Dundee, Oregon along with their son Josh, who had just returned from postgraduate study in viticulture and enology in Burgundy.        

Today the winery consists of five estate vineyards totaling 70 acres, in three of the top Willamette Valley appellations. Josh Bergström is the winemaker and general manager, and he farms organically and with biodynamic practices, using homemade compost and regenerative agricultural practices in order to coax maximum expression of their terroir into his wines.

Wine details: 100% Chardonnay from their estate vineyards in the Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, and Chehalem Mountain AVAs, with an average vine age of 25 years. The soils are a balanced mix of marine sedimentary sand on sandstone bedrock/shale, and red volcanic soil over basalt, on primarily south-facing blocks at elevations between 375 and 500 feet. Fermented with native yeast in 10- to 15% new French oak barriques, and aged 18 months on the lees. It goes through 100% malolactic fermentation.

Flavor Profile: Expressive and elegant, with fresh notes of citrus and orchard fruit and underlying flavors of toasty brioche and almonds. But perhaps most compelling is the underlying stony minerality, for which this wine is named.

Recommendation: Enjoy anytime over the next year or two. As they say on the label, this Chardonnay would pair well with dishes containing fresh seafood, shellfish, mushrooms, hazelnuts, and artisan cheeses

2021 Lemelson Vineyards, Thea’s Selection, $35

Background: Eric Lemelson planted his first vineyard in 1995 and his first release was from the 1999 vintage. His dream from the beginning has been to “celebrate innovation in technology, sustainability in agriculture, and tradition in winemaking.” Today he has organically farmed estate vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley and his winery is located in Carlton, Oregon. Thea’s Selection is their house cuvée, blended from three different AVAs and crafted to showcase the nuances of each site and the character of the vintage. The wines are made by Matt Wengel.

Wine details: 100% Pinot Noir, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged 15 months in 25% new and 75% previously-filled French oak barrels. Thea’s is blended from their five organically-farmed estate vineyards, spread across three different Willamette Valley AVAs: Yamhill-Carlton, with WillaKenzie sedimentary soil; Dundee Hills, with Jory and Nekia volcanic soils; and Chehalem Mountains, with Jory soil.

Flavor Profile: They feel Thea’s Selection is a perfect representation of each vintage, across all of their sites. The 2021 Thea’s is very pretty and inviting, with complex flavors of dark cherry and black currant, great texture, and a subtle hint of earthiness.

Recommendation: Enjoy now or over the next few years. Try it with roast leg of lamb with rosemary and cous cous or a Portobello mushroom burger with bacon and smoky mayo. Or a wild mushroom risotto.