2019 Melville Winery, Santa Rita Hills Syrah, $52
Background: Founded by Ron Melville, who grew grapes in Sonoma County’s Knight’s Valley for years before he relocated to the Santa Rita Hills, in the western Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County, to focus on cool-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.
The Santa Rita Hills received official AVA status in 2001, thanks in part to the work of the Melville family. Ron’s son Chad now makes the wines.
Wine details: Fruit for this 100% Syrah comes exclusively from their Santa Rita Hills estate, and is a combination of five different clones, including Beaucastel 99 (taken directly Beaucastel vineyard in the Rhône Valley), planted on a variety of soils, mostly Lompoc dune sand. Aged in neutral, 15-plus year-old French oak barrels. The cooling effect of the nearby Pacific Ocean prolongs the growing season, allowing the fruit to develop heightened flavor intensity and naturally balanced acidity.
Flavor Profile: Fruit planted on the well-drained sand adds notes of white pepper and spice, while the Beaucastel clone, grown on denser sandy loam, adds depth and complexity to the wine. It is a rich, yet balanced Syrah, with inviting flavors of dark fruit, herbs, and a hint of grilled meat.
Recommendation: This Syrah is ready to drink now, or over the next few years. It would pair well with stews, roasts, or similar hearty fare.
2020 Domaine du Vieux Collège, Marsannay Blanc, “Les Vignes Marie,” $45
Background: Vieux Collège is based in the commune of Marsannay-la-Côte, in the northernmost part of the Côtes de Nuits in Burgundy. It has been run by the same family for seven generations and today Eric Guyard overseas the estate and its 25 hectares of vines, located in Marsannay, Fixin, and Gevrey Chambertin. Eric converted the vineyards to natural farming to preserve the biodiversity and they have been certified organic since 2014. This wine comes from the lieu-dit (named site), Les Vignes Marie.
Wine details: 100% Chardonnay, from vines ranging from five to ten years in age, grown on soils of the mid-Jurassic strata, rich in limestone and softer marl. Aged 12 months in oak, about 20 to 30% new.
Flavor Profile: Very elegant, complex, and aromatic, with notes of toasted bread and nuts, and subtle flavors of white orchard fruit. With great structure, silky texture, and a nice, balancing sense of freshness.
Recommendation: Enjoy now, or over the next year or two. It would pair well with poultry, pork, grilled sole, or risotto.