2017 Le Relais de Durfort-Vivens, Margaux, “Les Vignes Marie,” $49.75

Background: Château Durfort-Vivens was classified as a Second Growth estate in the original 1855 classification in Bordeaux.

It dates back to the 14th century and is based in the left bank appellation of Margaux, in the Médoc. In 1937, Durfort-Vivens was purchased by the legendary First Growth estate, Château Margaux. Decades later Margaux sold the estate to the Lurton family and it is now run by Gonzague Lurton. Le Relais de Durfot-Vivens is their “second wine,” and it is an amazing value for such a pedigreed source. In 2016, Durfort-Vivens became the first estate in Margaux to become certified biodynamic, setting an important example for the other producers in the appellation. In their winemaking, their emphasis is on elegance, finesse, and classicism.

Wine details: This wine is typically about three quarters Cabernet Sauvignon and one quarter Merlot, aged in barrel, about 15% new, for 12 months.

Flavor Profile: The soil in Margaux is light and gravelly, known for producing aromatic wines of elegance and refinement. Margaux wines are often described as being like an iron fist in a velvet glove—powerful, yet delicate. The 2017 Le Relais is dark and full, with the richness and aromatics of Durfort-Vivens’ “Grand Vin,” but in a bright, accessible style. It has flavors of cassis and blackcurrant, great structure, and polished tannins.

Recommendation: Drink anytime over the next five years. It would be great with duck, especially with a blackcurrant Bordelaise sauce.

2019 Viña Sastre, Flavus, $48

Background: Viña Sastre is a family-run winery in the heart of Ribera del Duero, in north central Spain. Jesús Sastre is the winemaker and vineyard manager. He has 23 hectares of vineyards, located in La Horra, at 800 to 840 meters on small hills overlooking the Duero River basin, where he farms organically and biodynamically. We were unfamiliar with the grape, Cayetaña Blanca, which grows in various places in Spain, especially in the south, and is often made into brandy. The Ribera del Duero region does not have much of a tradition for white wines, and no official designation for blanco. Thus, this wine carries the simple Viño de Mesa designation.

Wine details: This wine is 100% Cayetaña Blanca, sourced from a single site with 60- to 100-year-old vines planted on alluvial, silica, and sandy soils. This obscure variety had always grown alongside their Tempranillo, and they mixed it into their field blend. After researching the grape further, they decided to separate it from the blend and make a standalone white. They produced their first Flavus in 2007, assuming it would be a simple, humble wine, meant for near-term consumption. But they discovered that it was much more complex than they expected and they continue to produce it every year. The wine is fermented with native yeasts in stainless and aged 24 months in bottle before release.

Flavor Profile: Fresh and vibrant, with notes of mountain herbs, citrus, and stone fruit, it has great acidity and inviting, complex flavors. While it doesn’t go through malolactic fermentation, it has plenty of character and texture and a long finish.

Recommendation: Enjoy now or over the next year or two. It is a great wine for shellfish, such as chili-rubbed prawns, or you could try it with ajo blanco, a popular Spanish chilled soup made with almonds and garlic (often called white gazpacho).