2021 Bedrock Wine Company, Evangelho Heritage, $45

Background: Bedrock Wine Company was founded by Morgan Twain-Peterson, son of Ravenswood founder, Joel Peterson.

Morgan could discern the difference between Merlot and Zin by the age of five, the same age at which he began making small lots of Pinot Noir. He started Bedrock in a converted chicken coop in 2007, sourcing fruit from his family’s vineyards. The winery has come a long way since then: in 2020 Bedrock was named Winery of the Year by Antonio Galloni. Morgan now owns and/or farms vineyards in a number of excellent sites, from Mendocino south to Santa Clara County. Perhaps most unique among them is his Evangelho Vineyard, planted in the 1890s in sandy soils along the Sacramento River Delta, in Contra Costa County. Morgan says that at the core of all of his wines is a focus on ideal ripeness, freshness, and aromatics.

Wine details: Produced from a field blend of own-rooted Zinfandel, Mourvèdre (aka Mataro), Carignane, Alicante Bouschet, Mission, Palomino, and more, grown in their historic Evangelho Vineyard. Aged in large foudre and puncheons, about 12% new.

Flavor Profile: The vineyard typically produces wines with an underlying natural brightness thanks to the winds that blow through the vineyard every day during the growing season. In 2021 drought conditions continued in the region and the resulting smaller berries and lower crop added a degree of intensity to the ripe, juicy flavors typical of this wine. It has flavors of dark red fruit and spice, with hints of umami and earth.

Recommendation: Enjoy anytime over the next three to five years. This wine would pair well with bigger, bolder foods—perhaps a special barbeque, or anything roasted or off the grill.

Background: The Fornerot family has been practicing viticulture in the Burgundy village of Saint-Aubin for over 500 years. They have also operated a nursery for many years, growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines for vintners throughout Europe. Today Jérôme Fornerot heads his namesake estate, overseeing all aspects of farming and winemaking. He combines the knowledge and tradition passed down through the generations with modern technology to produce wines with utmost character and balance. Today he has holdings in Saint-Aubin, Maranges, and Santenay, from which this wine comes. Santenay is located at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune subregion of the Côte d’Or, best known for its Pinot Noirs, but it also produces a small quantity of very compelling Chardonnay.

Wine details: 100% Chardonnay. Aged 15 months in barrel, 15% new. Les Charrons is a small parcel on the western edge of Santenay, planted in the 2000s on a lower-mid slope facing south/southwest with stony clay-limestone soil.

Flavor Profile: Santenay whites tend to be aromatic and fresh, with good energy and minerality. This one is very expressive, with lovely floral aromas, inviting texture, and refreshing citrus acidity. With a hint of spice from the mostly neutral oak, it is a delicious and more affordable alternative to the whites from its neighbor to the north, Puligny.

Recommendation: Enjoy now, or over the next three years. It would pair well with risotto with mushrooms, shrimp salad with aioli, or perhaps some creamy Délice de Bourgogne cheese.