Specialty Club – February 2009

2006 Domaine Rémi Jobard, Meursault Sous la Velle
Domaine Rémi Jobard is truly a family affair. Son Rémi took over the family estate when his father retired in 1997, but his mother continues to bottle the wines by hand. Soon after taking over, the younger Jobard began to be recognized as a rising star in the Meursault world. The village of Meursault lies in the Côte de Beaune district of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or and is known for it’s rich, elegant white wines made from the Chardonnay grape. As is true throughout Burgundy, the terroir is so varied here that each vineyard site has enormous effect on the flavor of the wine produced from it. Jobard crafts Meursault from three vineyard sites, and those from Sous la Velle are especially rich and concentrated. We loved this one at first sip for its delicate complexity and long, aromatic finish. It is sumptuous now, but should continue to develop for several more years. Delightful on it’s own, it could be paired with seafood (lobster or scallops), chicken, cheese, or cream-based dishes. Be sure not to serve it too cold, as that would hide all the rich complexity. There is probably little if any left in the market, but we do still have a bit in the shop. It was $60, but we were able to fit it in the club and ring it all up at $90. Enjoy!

2003 Cantina del Pino, Barbaresco, Ovello
Here’s another wine from a family with a long history of winemaking. Renato Vacca is now the owner and winemaker at Cantina del Pino in the Langhe region of Piedmont, Italy, but his parents continue to work in the vineyards along with aunts, uncles and family friends. Vacca oversees vineyards that were once tended by his great-grandfather 75 years ago. More important historically though, Vacca’s great-grandfather bought his vineyards from Domizio Cavazza, who was director of the Royal Enological School in Alba from 1888 to 1913, and was the first person to vinify a completely dry wine from the Nebbiolo grapes grown in this region. To the delight of the locals, he named the wine after their home village: Barbaresco. One of the vineyards bought by Vacca’s great-grandfather was Ovello, still a premium site in Barbaresco, situated in the hills above the Tanara River at about 1000 feet elevation. Here, the clay and sandy soils help contribute to the elegance and intensity of Vacca’s Barbarescos with their excellent depth of color and weight and firm, but well-integrated tannins. The 2003 vintage was released in 2007 and it is ready to drink now, though it could definitely age for another five to ten years. It is $49.75 and, like the Meursault above, it is gone from the market, though we have a bit left. Piedmont is the home of white truffles, risotto and mushrooms, all great partners to this wine, or you could pair it with rich meat dishes, which would nicely round out the wine’s
firm tannins. (For those who follow such things, this one received tre bicchieri—three goblets—from Gambero Rosso, a top honor from the most respected Italian wine guide.)