Specialty Club – March 2013

2010 Mongeard-Mugneret, Vosne Romanée
Most of the very fine red Burgundies we have put in this club have been premier or grand cru wines, since it’s unusual to find a village-level wine that is in the same class as its more famous siblings. But this lovely wine really impressed us, and it’s extremely limited to boot, as just a couple of cases came to Seattle. The Mongeard family has a long history of wine-making, first arriving in Vosne Romanée in 1786. Like many traditional Burgundian vignerons, they own many small plots scattered over 35 different appellations. The current winemaker, Vincent Mongeard, started in 1975 and has reintroduced many traditional practices, including generally not filtering the wines. The vineyards average around 45-50 years old, and yields are very low. The Mongeard-Mugneret wines are noted for “rich, supple, concentrated fruit,” in the words of Robert Parker, and they have a reputation for showing well when young but still being able to age nicely for 10-15 years. This wine is a perfect reflection of the house style. It has a classic Burgundian Pinot Noir nose, with hints of coffee and cocoa, and features silky fruit with a nice creaminess and a subtle touch of smokiness. It reflects the accessibility of many of the 2010 village wines, limited in yield due to a very cold June, but surprisingly lovely right out of the bottle. And it’s very versatile as well: earthy enough to go with poultry, lamb, sautéed mushrooms or vegetable casseroles, but delicate enough for tuna or salmon. It’s $56 and we have a few extra bottles available.

2009 de Ladoucette, Pouilly-Fumé
And here’s another novelty: a Pouilly-Fumé in this club not made by Didier Dagueneau! Like Mongeard-Mugneret, this winery also has a historic pedigree. The estate was purchased from the king by the Comte Lafond in 1787 and is now owned by his descendant, the Baron Patrick de Ladoucette. Unlike the ultra-modern oak treatment pioneered by the iconoclastic Dagueneau, this more traditional Sauvignon Blanc sees no oak at all. It is not as dissimilar as you might think, however, as the Ladoucette also features powerful, creamy fruit, but it is balanced by the stony minerality and crisp acidity characteristic of neighboring Sancerre. It is also an extremely versatile food wine, pairing well with goat cheeses, seafood, fish, and poultry. It would work very well with oysters and highly acidic vinaigrettes. It’s $42, ready to drink, and in good supply.