José Dhondt, Brut Blanc de Blancs, NV, $57

This house dates back to 1924, when José Dhondt’s grandfather immigrated to the region from Belgium.

José continued as a grower before taking over the reins and producing Champagne under his own label in 1974. (He continues to sell a small portion of his fruit to Möet and other large Champagne houses). Today he has about five hectares of vineyards spread across several parcels in the Côte des Blancs, mostly in the Grand Cru villages of Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, all planted to Chardonnay. He also has holdings in the southern Côte de Sézanne, where he grows the Pinot Noir that goes into his Rosé. While not officially certified organic, José practices lutte raisonnée, farming as naturally as possible and with minimal intervention. He also keeps yields low, and presses his fruit in a traditional vertical wood press. His Brut Blanc de Blancs gets eight grams per liter dosage and ages on the lees for about three years, adding richness, silky texture, and plushness to this refreshing Champagne with its notes of citrus, orchard fruit, and brioche. Delicious now or over the next few years, with food or on its own.