Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin, Éclats de Meulière, Extra-Brut, $60

This tiny family estate was founded in 1964 by Michel and Marie-Claude Jeaunaux, in La Vallée du Petit Morin, southwest of the Côte des Blancs.

The area is named for the Petit Morin River, a tributary of the Marne which runs through the region. The vineyards here grow on south-facing slopes consisting mostly of flinty soil, which adds distinct minerality to the wines. Because the location is prone to frost, the emphasis here is on the more frost-resistant Pinot Meunier grape.

Cyril and Clémence Jeaunaux-Robin now oversee the estate, with less than six hectares of vines (basically their backyard) in the village of Talus-Saint-Prix. Their vines average about 40 years in age (relatively old by Champagne standards) grown on flint-rich, silex soil and farmed organically and with biodynamic practices. They ferment with wild yeast in stainless steel and barrels, and age the wines on the lees for a further 30 months. The name of this wine, Éclats de Meulière (“burst of millstone”) refers to the pieces of flint and millstones found throughout their soil. It is 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay. The high percentage of Pinot Meunier provides an underlying fruitiness, with notes of orchard fruit and toast, plus nice depth and complexity. As an Extra Brut, this Champagne is bright and fresh, with citrus notes and mouthwatering acidity. It does get 5.5 grams dosage, though, which adds a touch of softness, while the long lees aging provides additional texture and body. The winery suggests enjoying it with crab salad.