Champagne Soutiran, Cuvée Alexandre Premier Cru, Brut, $68

Champagne Soutiran is based in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay, at the southern end of the Montagne de Reims.

It was founded in 1950 by Gérard Soutiran, and over the years his children have joined him, and now oversee the small, family estate. Today they have six hectares of vines, mostly in Ambonnay, with a few parcels of Premier Cru vineyards in Trépail, Chigny-les-Rose, Ludes, and Chamery, all of which they farm sustainably and organically.

Their Cuvée Alexandre is 40% each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with 20% Pinot Meunier, sourced from 20-year-old vines grown on clay-limestone soil. It goes through malolactic fermentation and is aged three years on the lees, resulting in a fresh, clean wine with notes of citrus and ripe orchard fruit. The high proportion of red grapes adds complexity and depth, and its food-friendly acidity makes it very versatile, especially over the coming holidays, to start the evening, or with a special meal.