Perseval-Farge, Terre di Sables, $70

Perseval-Farge is a small, four-hectare estate based in the Premier Cru village of Chamery, in the northern part of the Montagne de Reims, also known as the Petite Montagne.

The family has been in the village since the 18th century and today Benoist and Isabelle Perseval are carrying on the family tradition. They farm sustainably and strive to work with minimal impact on the environment so as to preserve their land for future generations. Benoist has worked hard to minimize the use of sulfur in his winemaking and his levels are less than half the normal amount in the region. Their vineyard holdings, planted about half to Pinot Noir, 35% to Chardonnay, and 15% to Pinot Meunier, are divided among six parcels, all in Chamery, with calcareous-clay soils on the higher parts of the slope and sandy-clay soils lower down. They also grow a small amount of the much less common Champagne grapes, Arbanne, Petit Meslier, and Fromenteau, or Pinot Gris.

Their Terre de Sables is made from grapes grown on the sandiest soils of the estate (sable is French for sand), which adds nice minerality to this cuvée, which is typically a blend of about 40% Pinot Noir and 30% each Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. It is aged on its lees for four years before disgorgement and gets four grams per liter dosage, resulting in a fresh, clean wine with balancing richness and notes of biscuits, hazelnuts, and an underlying touch of salinity from the soil. Enjoy it on its own or with roasted white meats, lobster, grilled scampi, or fish dishes.