Washington Wine Club – January 2024

2020 Tranche Estate, Cabernet Franc, $45

Background: Tranche is the sister label of Corliss Estates, which was founded in Walla Walla in 2001 and quickly became one of the top wineries in the state, thanks to ample resources, excellent vineyard sites, and meticulous attention to detail at every stage.   

Their Tranche wines, made by Spencer Williams, with assistant winemaker Tyler Dutton, while more affordable, are made with the same impeccable care as the Corliss line. As owners Michael and Lauri Corliss say, “At Tranche, we are devoted to crafting expressive, aromatic and beautifully defined wines. We strive to make every bottle worthy of your attention.”

Wine details: 100% Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in 40% new French oak. Sourced from their Blue Mountain estate vineyard, a 180-acre site at the foot of the Blue Mountains, on the eastern edge of Walla Walla. This cool site, situated at 1,145 to 1,265 feet elevation with wind-deposited silt loess soil, is one of the last to be picked in Walla Walla. The longer hang time allows the fruit to develop intense, complex flavors, true to the varietal.

Flavor profile: Fruit from their Blue Mountain Vineyard produces excellent Cab Franc, highlighting the distinctive dark earth and floral notes characteristic of the grape. This one is expressive and savory, with notes of herbs and spice, smooth tannins, and flavors of dark cherry, plum, and a hint of olives.

Recommendation: While it’s very approachable now, you could let it develop for a couple of years, then enjoy it anytime up to ten years from vintage. Great with lamb or other meat dishes with mildly spicy preparations, or with root vegetable dishes. Also delicious with pork tenderloin with a soy, garlic, honey Dijon marinade.

2018 Isenhower Cellars, Batchelor’s Button, $37

Background: Isenhower Cellars was founded by Brett and Denise Isenhower, both former pharmacists, in 1999, becoming the 18th winery in Walla Walla. Over the years they have developed long-time contracts with many top vineyards in different regions around the state, including Walla Walla, the Horse Heaven Hills, the Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, and the Wahluke Slope. They make all of their wines with finesse and careful attention to detail.

Wine details: This is Brett’s “almost Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon,” with 84% of the grapes coming from Summit View Vineyard in the Seven Hills section of Walla Walla, plus 12% from Wallula and 4% from Olsen Ranch. It is made completely from free run juice, and aged 28 months in French oak barrels, of which one-third were new. They made 295 cases of this wine.

Flavor profile: It is a gorgeous, complex, and seamlessly textured wine. Or, as Brett describes it: “Black-red hue, aromas of black olive, red currant, cigar box, and tobacco, with distinct notes of dust, minerality, leather, vanilla, and tapenade.”

Recommendation:  Enjoy now, or over the next three to five years. This is a great wine for grilled meats.