We are long-time fans of Thierry Triolet’s Champagnes and they have been a staple on our shelves for years.

But for some reason, we have never featured them in the club. This month we remedy that for two good reasons: one, this one was the biggest hit of our December Grower Champagne tasting, selling out quickly with orders for more. And two, we have recently learned that Thierry is retiring soon and, with no one in line to take over the winery, his Champagnes will no longer be produced. Understandably, we were very saddened to hear that, but we’re glad there was enough of this one left to put in our February club.

Triolet is based in the village of Bethon, in the Côtes de Sezanne, which lies to the south of the Côtes des Blancs, almost like an extension of that region. Like its neighbor to the north, the soil in the Côte de Sézanne is mostly chalk (with some sand and marl), and Chardonnay is the predominant grape grown. Triolet has about 11 hectares of vines, mostly Chardonnay, around the village of Bethon. His Vieilles Vignes is made only in the best vintages and is 100% Chardonnay, sourced from two parcels with 25- to 60-year-old vines. It is typically aged about four years on the lees in stainless steel, undergoes malolactic fermentation, and gets 9.5 grams per liter dosage. It’s a great value for a vintage Champagne, with nice minerality from the chalky soil, brioche notes, and lovely richness from the generous dosage. Great with or without food, and perfect for toasting Thierry Triolet on his retirement.