Grower Champagne Club – March 2024

Wafflart-Antoniolli, Premier Cru, Cuvée Prestige Brut, $65

Wafflart-Antoniolli is based in Sacy, a small Premier Cru hamlet with about 400 inhabitants, in the northwestern portion of the Montagne de Reims known as the Petite Montagne de Reims.

Wafflart, as they are more often known, is a tiny producer with about 13 acres of vineyards, about half of which are planted to Pinot Meunier, and the rest divided between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Until as recently as 2015 their wines were only available in select villages in France. Today their exclusive distribution in the U.S. is limited to Washington, and we’re delighted to be able to get them.

The wines are produced by Thierry Wafflart, who is also head of the village Champagne cooperative. His family has been producing wines in the region for several generations, dating back to 1906 when André Wafflart established their first vineyards. (There are now, perhaps confusingly, several houses in the area with Wafflart in their name.) Thierry’s Cuvée Prestige is 100% Pinot Noir and this disgorgement is mostly from the 2018 harvest, with a percentage of Pinot Noir from the reserve of previous vintages. It is fermented in stainless steel and goes through malolactic fermentation. Aged 60 months on the lees and at least three further months after disgorgement, it gets 7.5 grams per liter dosage. The result is a rich, complex Champagne with aromas of red fruit, apple, and biscuit. It has the brioche flavors we love in a Champagne, accented with some darker fruit notes (brioche with jam?). The importer describes Thierry as a “dedicated artisan clearly revealing himself through his Champagnes.”