Jacques Copinet, Cuvée Marie Etienne Blanc de Blancs 2004
Jacques and Brigette Copinet founded their Champagne estate in 1975 in the tiny village of Montgenost in the Côte de Sézanne. This up-and-coming region extends southward from the Côte des Blancs with which it shares similar cretaceous chalk soil and, like its neighbor to the north, it is planted mostly to Chardonnay. The Côte de Sézanne, however, grows about 20 % Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier as well. The Copinets, who are now assisted by their daughter, Marie Laure, have vineyard holdings in a number of villages in addition to Montgenost (including several in the Marne Valley) from which they source their Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, enabling them to blend with diversity in both varietal and terroir. But this wine is all Chardonnay from their chalky vineyard in Montgenost, and all from the 2004 vintage, which has produced some stunning wines as we have seen over the years. It is a lovely straw color, with fine bubbles and aromas of apricots and white flowers. With its lively acidity, perfect balance, and complex structure, it would be wonderful to enjoy with a special meal, especially with lighter fish dishes. At $53, this is a steal for a vintage grower Champagne from a very solid producer.