Le Brun Servenay, Cuvée Tresor Exhilarante, Vielles Vignes, 2006
The Le Brun family has been growing and producing Champagne in the small Côte des Blancs commune of Avize for generations. A marriage joined them with the Servenays, long-time growers in nearby Mancy. Today Le Brun Servenay has vineyard holdings in three Grand Cru villages, as well as in some of the surrounding hills. So although they are based in Avize, which grows exclusively Chardonnay, 20% of their holdings are planted to Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. We have featured their Blanc de Blancs twice in the club, at which time we introduced Patrick Le Brun who has run the domaine since 1991. You may recall that the French government awarded him the title of Knight of the National Order of Agricultural Merit in 2008 for his work as president of the Syndicat General de Vignerons (the union of Champagne growers that promotes the appellation, sets standards, and provides technical assistance to grower-producers). Le Brun adheres to the traditional practices passed down from father to son over the years: he uses no oak, very low dosage, and no malolactic fermentation, all in order to emphasize the freshness and delicacy of the fruit. His wines are renowned for their gentle weight and remarkable complexity and finesse. This offering, from the excellent 2006 vintage, is a blend of 80% Chardonnay, with 10% each Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Aged for eight years in their cellars, it has gorgeous toasty aromas and all of the delicacy and expressiveness one expects in a Le Brun Servenay. Being a vintage Champagne it is $87 and worth every penny. Perfect for any upcoming celebration, or to enjoy over the holidays, perhaps with, as the winery suggests, lobster or roasted crayfish deglazed in Champagne, with lemon and sea salt.