Champagne Geoffroy, Cuvée Volupté, 2008 $85
The Geoffroy family dates back to the 17th century when they were grape growers in the Marne Valley village of Cumières. In the 1950s, Roger Geoffroy began producing wines from their fruit and launched the Roger Geoffroy label. He was succeeded by his son René (and the René Geoffroy label) who acquired new vines and further developed and promoted their brand. Today Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy is at the helm and in 2008 he moved the winery facilities to Äy, just east of Epernay. He owns 14 hectares of vineyards, mostly in Cumières, as well as in Hautvillers, Damery, and Fleury-la-Rivière, all Premier Cru.
Geoffroy’s 2008 Volupté is 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir, sourced from the chalky soils of Cumières. It is harvested and sorted by hand and only the first juice of the pressing (done in a traditional Coquard wine press) is selected. Jean-Babtiste avoids the use of malolactic fermentation but does age about half of the wine in demi-muid casks and barrels which adds richness and texture. His aim with this wine each year is to provide the most beautiful expression possible of fruit grown on Cumières soil, converying the elegance, finesse, and minerality that can be achieved from the chalky site. The 2008 Volupté is refined and silky with delicate flavors of buttery brioche. Importer Terry Theise is extremely passionate about Jean-Baptiste’s wines and of this one writes: “this may be the sexiest wine JB has made…(with a) finish so intricate it’s nearly heart-rending. Perfect balance into a gentle, glowing farewell.” It’s hard to top that! The winery suggests enjoying it as an aperitif or with a very fine fish, such as roasted sea bass. Or with goat or parmesan cheese.