Grower Champagne Club – January 2020

Marc Hébrart, Cuvée de Réserve, Brut, Premier Cru, $57
Champagne Marc Hébrart is based in the village of Mareuil-su-Aÿ in the Marne Valley. Today the estate is run by Jean-Paul Hébrart, a soft-spoken, unassuming man, who never seeks attention for his wines. But importer Terry Thiese considers him one of the top producers in his portfolio, if not in all of Champagne. Theise writes that, whenever he has Hébrart’s wines in his glass he asks himself, “Does Champagne really get any better than this?” Today Hébrart has holdings in a number of Premier and Grand Cru villages in both the Marne Valley, and the Côte des Blancs. Jean-Paul was in town recently pouring his Champagnes at a trade event. They were all stunning, but we especially loved his Cuvée de Réserve. It is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir (grown on clay soil) and 15% Chardonnay (grown on limestone soil). It was aged two years on its lees and underwent malolactic fermentation in stainless steel. To quote Thiese again, of the Cuvée de Réserve he says, “I cannot fathom how there could be a better NV Brut than this, anywhere in Champagne.” This one was also the biggest hit at our annual grower Champagne tasting in December—it sold out completely with orders for more. If you got a chance to try it that day, you already know that it is elegant and complex, with lovely texture, beautiful clarity, and remarkable balance. It would be completely understandable if you wanted to simply enjoy this Champagne on its own, although it would also be wonderful with food.