Grower Champagne Club – March 2020

Gonet-Médeville, Premier Cru, Extra Brut Rosé, $71.50
Gonet-Médeville is a relatively young estate that represents the union of two winemaking families. Xavier Gonet comes from a long-established family of Champagne growers based in Le Mesnil. In 1997 he married Julie Médeville, whose family has been producing Sauternes for generations at their Bordeaux estate, Château Gillette. When Julie’s parents retired, Xavier joined her in Bordeaux to continue her family tradition. But the two also wanted to carry on Xavier’s lifelong passion of producing Champagne, so in 2000 they founded their own Champagne house, Gonet-Médeville, in the village of Bisseuil in the Marne Valley. And when his family’s holdings were being divided, Xavier opted to receive a small allotment of their top Premier and Grand Cru vineyard sites from which he could produce “exquisite, small-production Champagnes.” Today they farm all of those sites organically and vinify each parcel separately in order to capture the individual terroir of each plot before blending. Their Champagnes are known for their remarkable elegance and delicacy. Their Rosé is 70% Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and 27% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay and Bisseuil, blended with 3% still red wine from Ambonnay. Somewhat confusingly, it is labeled brut on the front label but extra brut on the back. But according to the winery, it gets seven grams dosage, putting it closer to the brut level which it resembles both in texture and depth. As with all of their wines, they block malolactic fermentation in order to accentuate the inherent purity and expressiveness of the fruit. Some of it is vinified in old casks, adding further richness and depth to this very elegant yet focused wine. Perfect for shellfish, charcuterie, or sashimi.