Grower Champagne Club – April 2020

Moussé Fils, L’Or D’Eugène, $55
Moussé Fils is based in the village of Cuisles, in the Marne Valley. The family has been making Champagne for four generations, but have been growing vines much longer than that. Today the wines are made by Cédric Moussé, who took over after his father, Jean-Marc, passed away in 2013. Cédric practices organic viticulture in his vineyards which are spread across four different villages and are planted 80% to Pinot Meunier. The family has always been huge fans of that grape (the tagline on their website reads, profondément meunier, or “deeply Meuiner”). And despite the fact that Pinot Meunier is sometimes considered a “lesser” grape in the region, Cédric’s father always said, “You can make superb wines from Meunier. It has aromas that you just don’t find in other varieties. Yes, Pinot Noir is more complete and powerful, but it doesn’t have the fruitiness of Meunier. We absolutely love Meunier here.” We totally agree! The grape thrives in a vein of green clay soil known as Illite, that runs through the area, but is quite rare elsewhere in the Marne. This cuvée (originally called Carte Or, then Or Tradition) was first created by the founder of the house, Eugène Moussé over 90 years ago, and it is now their flagship Champagne. It is 80% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir, made from a perpetual blend, as in the solera method used in making Sherry. The reserve wine dates back to 2003 and is refreshed every year with 50% of the new harvest. This Champagne undergoes malolactic fermentation and sees 24 months in bottle before release, resulting in a rich wine with lovely texture and weight. It has aromas of spice and toasty brioche and flavors of white peach, a hint of pear, and a nutty finish. According to the winery, this Champagne is ready to drink one year after disgorgement (the date on the bottle lists this as June 5, 2019) or over the following ten years. Enjoy it with lobster bisque or perhaps a wild mushroom risotto.