Champagne Moutard Père et Fils, “Climat de Champagne,” Les Troncs, $60
Moutard is based in the commune of Buxeuil in the southern Côte des Bar region of Champagne, where their history dates back to the mid-17th century. We have featured Champagnes from Moutard in the past, including their “6 Cepages,” which includes all six of the authorized Champagne grapes. As you may recall, Moutard is one of the few producers who still grow all of these historic grapes. In addtion to their roots in the Champagne region, the Moutard family also has ties to Burgundy, where the term “climat” is used to refer to specific vineyard sites, including the climatic and geographic characteristics (similar to terroir). So when they created this special line of Champagnes, each from a unique vineyard plot, they decided to named them “Climat de Champagne,” in a nod to their Burgundy roots. The Champagnes are all sourced from a specific site, made from a single grape, and express their unique terroir character. They are vinified in large, used Burgundian barrels (foudre) at least nine months, then aged in the bottle a further four years on the lees in the winery’s cellars. Although these cuvées are all low to no dosage, the oak aging and time on lees adds a distinct richness and texture to the wines. We especially loved this one, “Les Troncs,” for its spicy, briochy notes and inviting complexity. It also expresses the rich, fruity aromas and stony minerality that is typical of Champagnes grown in the clay and limestone soil around Buxeuil. (The staple holding the cork in may look a bit intimidating, but it is easy to pry off with a screwdriver. Once it is removed­—like a wine cage—you can just remove the cork as you normally would.)