Hugues Godmé, Millésime 2009, Grand Cru, $75
The Godmé family has been growing grapes in the village of Verzenay, in the Montagne de Reims, since the 19th century. Just after World War II, Joseph Godmé began making his own Champagne and soon became one of the first growers to bottle all of his own fruit himself, selling nothing to the large houses. Hugues Godmé, Joseph’s grandson, received his first vineyard from his grandfather in 1976 when he was still a student at enology school and for many years, Hugues and his sister Sabine jointly oversaw operations. But they had different sylistic ideas, which prevented Hugues from crafting his Champagnes exactly the way he wanted. Eventually they split up the family property and created their own individual estates. Today Hugues Godmé is considered among the top grower-producers in Champagne. He is passionate and humble and produces pure, terroir-driven wines from his impeccably grown fruit. He farms completely biodynamically and picks his fruit relatively early in order to achieve maximum freshness. In the winery he uses native yeasts, with no fining or filtration, ages his wines on the lees, and vinifies in neutral wood. “What I want to achieve for all of my wines,” he says, “is a certain lightness… I prefer sensuality and lace to something too overt.” This vintage offering is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir from his Grand Cru vineyards in Verzenay and Verzy. Although it has relatively low dosage, eight years of lees aging gives it rich, complex flavors of brioche and a touch of nuttiness, balanced by a bright, fresh acidity. It’s ready to drink anytime, on its own or with food.