Franck Bonville, Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, $69

This Champagne house in the Côte des Blancs dates back to the early 1900s, when Alfred Bonville sought out and purchased vineyard land that held promise for him.

He limited his search to property that was only a few hours away by horse from his home in Oger. In the 1930s the family bought a winegrower’s house dating back to the 19th century in the village of Avize, complete with wine press, oak casks, and a cellar. Today the estate is headed by Olivier Bonville, who represents the fourth generation of the family to oversee the property. They now have 77 vineyard plots in the Grand Cru villages of Avize, Oger, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, all in the Côtes des Blancs, which Olivier has transitioned to sustainable agriculture. Their focus has always been on Blanc de Blancs Champagnes and this cuvée is the one they feel best represents their house style. It is 100% Chardonnay of course, sourced from Avize and Oger and, they note, “shows perfectly our idea of a Blanc de Blancs from the Côte des Blancs: a lot of finesse and elegancy, [and] a beautiful minerality enveloped by smoothness.” It goes through alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, preserving freshness, but gets 8.3 gpl dosage, adding lovely creaminess and elegance. The addition of reserve wine and long aging in their cellars ensures that the wine expresses the freshness and finesse of their chalky soils year after year. With its aromas of white flowers, notes of white peach and citrus, and minerality from the chalky subsoil, it is delicious on its own, or paired with seafood, especially shellfish.