Michel Turgy, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Brut Millésime 2004
The Champagne house of Michel Turgy is located in the commune of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. Home to some of the most respected larger Champagne houses (think Salon and Krug), Le Mesnil grows some of the most coveted fruit in the Champagne region. The family has had a vineyard here since 1881, though it wasn’t until the 1920s that they began bottling Champagne under their own label. Today Jean-Michel Turgy is at the helm, carrying on the family tradition, with six hectares in Le Mesnil, all Grand Cru and all planted to Chardonnay. The chalky, limestone soil here is similar to that of Chablis, to the south, and imparts exceptional mineraltiy to the wines, while the gentle slopes of Turgy’s vineyards, with their varying exposures, allow the fruit to capture the necessary sunlight to fully ripen. In the cellar, Jean-Michel blends for maximum flavor and harmony, always striving for nuance and delicacy in his wines. The importer notes that, as they age, Turgy Champagnes tend to develop characteristics of Meursault—a Burgundian white known for its remarkable structure and aromatics. Here’s a great opportunity to experience that for yourself as this offering, from the 2004 vintage, has over ten years of age on it. Typical of Turgy Champagnes, it is vibrant and clean, balanced by impressive depth and complexity, with a soft nuttiness and hints of citrus. This gem was being closed out because the importer was moving its portfolio to a different distributor, so we were able to put it in the club at $70. It is ready to drink now and you could savor it on its own, or pair it with lobster or creamy poultry dishes.